Open the hood and remove the three bolts holding the passenger headlight in. The one causing the issue is G102.įirst, disconnect the battery. then the issue lies within the PCM/ECM/BCM, sort of. Now, assuming you have checked all the basics battery, fusible links, corrosion on battery terminals, PCM relay, starter, PATS, main fuse, etc. It took me a couple days with an oscilloscope and varying signal inputs to get the engine to run smoothly enough bypassing the ECM controls. The only time it will is if the loss of key programming caused the PATS inhibit and happened because of a failing PCM/ECM/BCM.įor anyone wondering about bypassing PATS. PATS failure, PCM/ECM/BCM loss of key programming, ignition key rf transceiver failure or open/shorted signal wires shouldn't be accompanied by the engine systems' data errors. If it is blinking twice per second, then the PATS is disabling the vehicle. I could write a whole different thread on the PATS, but simply put, if your security light on the top center of the dash blinks in the regular intervals then your PATS should be fine. Essentially, it is really just "not enabled" without seeing a proper key.
The reason I mention all of those is that the three part module is passively disabled by the PATS. It grounds the fuel injectors & spark plug coils based on cam sensor input, sends the variable duty cycle signal to the fuel pump, sends the signal to the starter and much more. The PCM/ECM/BCM is very complex, but the premise behind how it works is mostly switching grounds. Now, these are likely to have additional issues accompanying them should they fail.
Next they can be checked at each end for resistance and continuity. The fusible links can be pulled on gently to see if any sections feel "spongy". It can still cause a plethora ofor issues, but it was not the cause behind mine. With the notoriety these things have for water infiltrating through the lower passenger edge of the a-pillar, I figured it was my best bet. The interior fuse box actually has layered pass through circuit cards built into it. Now, given the variety of issues and routing all of the circuits I found only a few points that one point of failure could affect all of those circuits. Starter relay clicks, but engine does not crank
Symptoms (can be all or some of the following): If you don't care much for reading, skip to the SOLUTION heading. After spending probably a hundred or so hours going through electrical diagrams in my FSM testing circuits, cards, wires, connectors and becoming frustrated beyond belief, I finally found the issue.
I found many threads on the issue, but never a resolution for those of us that had a problem beyond a simple relay or the likes. This issue affects both Ford Expeditions and Lincoln Navigators.
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